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AGRITURISMO.


"AI GIR".


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TRATTO DA " IL GAZZETTINO "
Martedì, 19 Dicembre 2006


Il paese dalle otto anime e dai molti fantasmi

.A Cordellon di Mel nel 1960 c’erano 600 abitanti, ora sono meno di dieci.
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Cordellon (Belluno)
Guarda la fotografia: c'è Albino Luciani, vescovo di Vittorio Veneto e futuro Papa, al centro di un gruppo di ragazzini e genitori sorridenti; su un manifestino poco dietro si intravede la scritta "W S.E. il Vescovo". Corre, ma non troppo, l'anno di grazia 1960 e nel piccolo borgo di Cordellon , località di Mel arrampicata sulle Prealpi bellunesi, è festa per la cresima. All'epoca Cordellon contava cinquecento abitanti («ma probabilmente di più, intorno ai 600 - racconta la figlia del fornaio - ricordando quanto pane portava su mio padre»), oggi è un paese (quasi) fantasma. Se l'ambientazione lo consentisse penseresti a certi villaggi dei vecchi western in bianco e nero. Colori, in questa giornata d'inverno, in effetti ce ne sono pochi, con la nebbiolina che avvolge le case sparse e gli alberi che spuntano pure loro come fantasmi. Eppure basta una giornata di sole e questo posto diventa un paradiso della natura, i colori tornano vivi come dovevano essere quel giorno in cui arrivò Albino Luciani non ancora Papa. Siamo qui proprio perchè ci hanno detto che questo è diventato un paese fantasma: «Voi che scrivete sempre di abbandono della montagna e forse non sapete neanche di cosa parlate, venite a vedere cosa succede se la gente è costretta ad andar via».
Oggi che la rivolta di Lamon e Sovramonte ha costretto i signori della pianura a prendere in considerazione quella montagna buona solo per sciarci d'inverno e andarci a funghi d'estate, oggi che in Regione "sinistri" e "destri" si ingegnano a trovare la scappatoia per non dover dire «ma sì, andatevene in Trentino», una gita a Cordellon (prendete la strada Provinciale della Sinistra Piave bellunese, arrivate a Mel e sulla destra troverete un cartello marrone con l'indicazione) in effetti può essere istruttiva.
Da "foresto", ti chiedi cosa può spingere la gente ad abbandonare un luogo così incantevole, tanto più che il paese non è affatto tagliato fuori dal resto del mondo: la Provinciale è a dieci minuti d'auto, in mezz'ora sei a Belluno e in tre quarti d'ora a Treviso. Ti chiedi perchè da quei 5-600 abitanti del 1960 oggi per contare i residenti quasi ti bastano le dita di una mano. La risposta di Claudio Scarton, che a Cordellon ci è nato e oggi è tornato a viverci aprendo un agriturismo, spiega con semplicità e chiarezza quello che a Roma, a Venezia e talvolta anche a Belluno si fa fatica a capire: senza un livello minimo di servizi la gente scappa. «È costretta a scappare - puntualizza Claudio - perchè, credetemi, abbandonare la casa in cui sei nato e i luoghi in cui sei cresciuto è molto, molto difficile». Il fatto è che negli anni '50 e '60 le condizioni per restare a Cordellon c'erano. «Quanto meno c'era tutto il necessario - spiega Ernesto Isotton, maestro in pensione che nel borgo insegnò dal '63 al '67 -: la chiesa, la scuola elementare, quei due-tre negozi essenziali. Quando spariscono questi servizi, e la parrocchia fu la prima ad essere soppressa, la comunità perde anche la sua identità». Passeggiando per il borgo incontriamo la chiesa innalzata nel 1948, le scuole elementari costruite nel 1958, la casa nella quale un anno prima era stato installato il primo telefono pubblico; poi la latteria, la merceria, il negozio di alimentari, più in là il cimitero realizzato nel 1956. Sembrano i mattoni di una comunità viva, invece proprio allora comincia la fuga. «A mio avviso - osserva Claudio - il progressivo abbandono è stato causato da tanti ritardi della pubblica amministrazione: a Cordellon l'energia elettrica è arrivata nel 1961, ma l'acqua nel 1970 e prima si usavano solo le fontane. I disagi col tempo diventavano troppo difficili da sopportare. E a proposito di ritardi ne indico uno per tutti, il più grave: la strada che portava al paese fu asfaltata quando di fatto la gente se n'era già andata». Il paradosso di Cordellon è che con l'apertura a valle dello stabilimento Zanussi di Mel si erano create delle alternative anche sul fronte del lavoro: «Ci fosse stata la strada asfaltata - spiega Claudio tenendo in braccio il suo splendido bambino - tanta gente avrebbe potuto restare. Invece quella specie di mulattiera che serviva il paese non era compatibile con i tempi richiesti dalla fabbrica e lo stabilimento di Mel finì per risucchiare tanta gente».
Piano piano la parrocchia venne cancellata, la scuola elementare spostata a Lentiai, i negozi chiusero.E chissenefrega se a Cordellon non resta anima viva?, potrebbe cinicamente commentare qualcuno. In realtà gli effetti del degrado sono un problema di tutti: il bosco avanza inesorabilmente («mia madre Fernanda quando viene su mi dice: qui c'era un vigneto, qui c'era un campo di patate», ricorda Claudio), sempre meno persone si prendono cura dei terreni e l'abbandono dei pendii - insegnano i geologi - non è mai un fatto senza conseguenze.
Un foglio ingiallito del giornale diocesano annota a 32 gli abitanti nel 1980, finchè nel '96 si segnala solo la presenza di Arduino, un vedovo. Titoli di coda sulle immagini del villaggio fantasma? Forse no, malgrado tutto: oggi Cordellon conta 8 residenti, che da questa estate saranno 12 visto che un artigiano bassanese ha deciso di venire ad abitarci. Di questa dozzina, sei saranno bimbi sotto i sei anni. A ben pensarci, questa è una storia di Natale. Avrebbe strappato un sorriso anche a quel vescovo della fotografia, Papa non ancora Papa.
.

Tiziano Graziottin





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Ciao! siamo Claudio e Clio, il primo da Saronno e la seconda da Belluno. Lo scorso inverno siamo stati clienti di Claudio Ai Gir, inutile dire quanto sia stata una serata piacevole grazie all'ambiente familiare ed accogliente ed al cibo sopraffino.
Ora siamo in america precisamente a New York per motivi di studio e riusciamo ad apprezzare ancora di piu' la bellezza di quei luoghi.
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